Daily life in Trastevere

Shopping and markets

The Trastevere neighbourhood market is in piazza San Cosimato, mornings Monday to Saturday: seasonal fruit and vegetables, meat and offal, fish, cheese. On Sunday mornings the Porta Portese market, the city's largest second-hand market, is held along via Portuense and via Ippolito Nievo. Bakeries, grocers, pork butchers and a few artisan workshops survive in the inner streets; supermarkets are small-format, on viale di Trastevere and towards Porta Portese. For a big shop people go outside the rione, to Monteverde or Testaccio.

Health, schools, libraries

The rione has the Nuovo Regina Margherita hospital (via Emilio Morosini) and, on the Tiber Island, the Fatebenefratelli hospital with an emergency department. Pharmacies are numerous along viale di Trastevere and in the main squares. There are state nursery, primary and lower secondary schools and upper secondary institutes, as well as branches of foreign universities.

The Casa della Memoria e della Storia in via San Francesco di Sales is part of the Biblioteche di Roma network and specialises in twentieth-century history; the nearest branch libraries are in Testaccio and the historic centre.

Green space and leisure

The Gianicolo is the rione's park: you climb from via Garibaldi or the steps at San Pietro in Montorio, to the Belvedere promenade and the noon cannon shot. The university's Botanical Garden (entrance from largo Cristina di Svezia) charges admission but is quiet. Villa Sciarra, between Trastevere and Monteverde, has gardens and a children's playground. The riverside can be walked and cycled on the path along the embankment.

Nightlife is concentrated between piazza Trilussa, via della Scala, via del Politeama and piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere; the Santa Cecilia area and via dei Vascellari are quieter. The offer is Roman trattorie, pizzerie, wine bars and pubs, with prices above the city average in the most touristic streets.